Newbie after some advice for initial build

[papa]

Congratulations, lhw455 on narrowing down what the likely problem was. Bummer about a defective Arduino Ethernet Shield, that's frustrating, but then again you may have learned more from troubleshooting a problem than from immediate success. Still it means a wait until you have a working Gateway & something for end nodes to connect to.

In the meantime, I guess you might work on assembling an end node, perhaps either my garage door opener node or a DHT End Node or ?? You might see my Success... posts of Sep 19, 2015 at 4:27pm & Sep 22, 2015 at 7:51pm about building a DHT node on a 3.3 volt friendly prototyping shield to be plugged into the Buono Uno.  As said there, I have not yet documented all of it (been a little busy helping some newbies ;-) but what I posted so far could keep you busy for a while (especially if you must order some of the prototyping shields I referenced).

My garage door opener node is somewhat documented in my Success... post of Sep 18, 2015 at 12:55pm.

I hope to eventually document a DHT node I've built that uses a solid state relay to turn AC devices on & off.

Wow, I've just seen that we've generated enough conversation in this thread to begin a second page.

[papa]

lhw455, let's reconsider your Gateway problems a bit & document what we learned & how. Back when you said, "took me awhile to figure out that I needed to upload the .ino without the W5100 attached. However, I switch it all on and .... nothing. Light on the W5100 shows power, but nothing else, even when I plug in the Ethernet cable." Turns out this was an important clue that I & you did not address until you unplugged the Ethernet Shield & got debugging results on the serial monitor.

You added to the above clue & diagnosis as you just said "Suspect it's the W5100 [Ethernet Shield that is the problem]. When disconnected, the [Buono Uno] R3 works fine (I see output in the serial monitor), but not when either the W5100 with and without the RFM and LED/resistors attached."  This sounds like you followed my suggestions (plus one step further) to remove parts progressively & keep testing until debugging showed you something useful.

Again, congratulations, you've successfully used good troubleshooting techniques.

[lhw455]

Thanks papa, once again. I do appreciate you (and this forum) helping, as I know that it takes time to assist. Hopefully I will get the opportunity to help others in the future

I will continue with assembly of an end node - I figured that the temp/humidity sensor was the best, so I originally ordered the parts for that. Should hopefully be easier this time around!

Indeed, when I needed to remove the Ethernet shield to upload the sketch that should have been a clue for me, but I just assumed this needed to be this way! Another learning experience.

FYI, I found this thread on the Arduino forums which references a similar problem (http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=264739.15) - although from the pics on here it appears many others are using the same ethernet shield with no issues, so I might just order another in the meantime (from somewhere else!)

[papa]

As you say, "when I needed to remove the Ethernet shield to upload the sketch that should have been a clue for me, but I just assumed this needed to be this way! Another learning experience."

Yes, it was a clue, but a partial one. Uploading can be flaky for other reasons maybe due to the occasional flakiness of USB connections. The rest of clue was progressively stripping the parts (never seeing debugging output on the serial monitor) & then getting debugging output when you lastly removed the Ethernet Shield.

Definitely another learning experience which you can pass on to others. My gratitude for others' help & encouragement from those who seek help give me motivation to document & answer questions.

[lhw455]

It lives! I ordered another ethernet shield from a local seller (same model as far as I can see) and everything works perfectly. However, I can't seem to connect to the MQTT running on the pi, so I'm still trying to figure that one out (I didn't have alot of time last night).

So pleased! Thanks! Now onto the node when I get some time.

[lhw455]

Mosqutto installed and it's connecting fine (according to the serial monitor) - only thing is the LED to show the Mosquitto connection isn't lighting up! But more success - what I'll do is write up how to install the latest version of Mosquitto on Raspbian, as the guides I saw were outdated.

[papa]

LED not working is the better problem to have. Try connecting the LED/resistor briefly just to a 3-4.5 volt battery pack to see if it works. I forget did you add some solder to the LED / resistor leads so they fit solidly in the sockets? I assume you also made sure resistor side is in the right digital socket & the LED side is in an Arduino ground.

Sounds great that you would document the install of Mosquitto on Raspbian.

[lhw455]

I switched them around (the LED's) and it's working, so I'll resolder the other one.

I need to build the node next to test this all, so I think I already have a few questions on that schematic! I'll formulate my thoughts and put them here.

In the meantime, getting Moquitto (latest version) installed on the Raspberry Pi (or 2)

Follow this guide: jpmens.net/2013/09/01/installing-mosquitto-on-a-raspberry-pi/

Except, when you get to this part:


curl -O http://repo.mosquitto.org/debian/mosquitto-repo.gpg.key
sudo apt-key add mosquitto-repo.gpg.key
rm mosquitto-repo.gpg.key
cd /etc/apt/sources.list.d/
sudo curl -O http://repo.mosquitto.org/debian/mosquitto-repo.list
sudo apt-get update


Instead follow this:


curl -O http://repo.mosquitto.org/debian/mosquitto-repo.gpg.key
sudo apt-key add mosquitto-repo.gpg.key
rm mosquitto-repo.gpg.key
cd /etc/apt/sources.list.d/
sudo curl -O http://repo.mosquitto.org/debian/mosquitto-wheezy.list
sudo apt-get update


For Debian Wheezy (earlier version of Debian)

Or for Jessie

curl -O http://repo.mosquitto.org/debian/mosquitto-repo.gpg.key
sudo apt-key add mosquitto-repo.gpg.key
rm mosquitto-repo.gpg.key
cd /etc/apt/sources.list.d/
sudo curl -O http://repo.mosquitto.org/debian/mosquitto-jessie.list
sudo apt-get update


Hope that helps (it's covered in the comments on that page, but it's pretty buried so I thought it would be helpful to have it summarised here)

[lhw455]

Ok so very basic question - can I confirm that the right schematic to follow for the end node with temp sensor is the DHT 2.2 end node per computourist githib download?

If so, the following questions spring to mind:

1) GND on the sensor goes to GND on the Arduino?
2) The data signal on the sensor, does this go to D8 with 2 resistors in between?
3) VCC on the RFM and sensor, do I connect both "in-between" the 2 resistors between sensor data signal and D8
4) Maybe the sensor data signal goes to D4?
5) What is the stuff after the voltage input? Do I need this if I'm on a 3.3v clone?

Hope that makes sense.

[papa]

Thanks, lhw455, for the summary on "getting Mosquitto (latest version) installed on the Raspberry Pi (or 2)."  That could help others, including maybe me if I use a Raspberry Pi instead of a Windows laptop.

At my Success... posts later tomorrow, I hope that I can give more detailed instructions about building a DHT End node on a prototyping shield.

You can see & execute the start of the build at the Sep 22, 2015, 7:51pm & Oct 10, 2015, 8:01am Success... posts.

Unlike building the Gateway, you will need more than an Arduino Clone for a DHT End node because the Arduino does not have enough connections for what is required.  You will need something else like my build on a shield.

Since you are using a 3.3 v clone, it may be easier for you to follow my adapted schematic at the Success... Sept. 22, 7:51pm post.

         Responding to your questions about the schematic... 

1) Yes GND on the sensor SOMEHOW connects to an Arduino GND (which it may share with other items needing GND)

2) You're not interpreting the schematic correctly.  D8 is to read the push button & connects to one of the button's terminals which also connects to 3.3 v power via a pull up 10k ohm resistor (resistor connected to power gives D8 a stable 3.3 volt value until pushing the button grounds D8 thru the button's other terminal & gives D8 a stable zero value to indicate the button was pushed.)

3) Schematic means connect Arduino 3.3v SOMEHOW to DHT sensor's VCC AND to the RFM69's 3.3 v solder hole. (Again you need something like my shield built to accomplish this.)

4) Yes the sensor data pin connects to D4, but it also connects to Arduino 3.3 v via a 4.7 k ohm pull up resistor. (See my shield build.)

5) The "stuff after the voltage input" in the original CompuTourist schematic is what he added to provide additional needed current. No, you do not need this with a 3.3v clone like a Buono Uno. (My adapted schematic deletes that "stuff.")

[lhw455]

Thanks again Papa, I'm going to try and tackle this tonight, time permitting. Just a question, what is the purpose of the button and pull-up resistor? It's not needed in the tutorial (http://www.instructables.com/id/Uber-Home-Automation-w-Arduino-Pi/) from Eric? His temp node is quite simple compared to this one, correct?

[papa]

The CompuTourist DHT End node can have an LED (with resistor) or a relay. The LED or relay can be toggled on/off via the node's push button or via the virtual switch on OpenHAB's User Interface shown in a browser window. The button gives you control of LED or relay-controlled AC device right at the node. Regarding the pull-up resistor: Apparently Arduino digital pins can "float" in value which can interfere with reliably reading them & acting on their values. The pull-up resistor connects D8 (which reads the button value) & one button terminal to 3.3 v which "pulls up" D8's value to a stable digital one. The button's other terminal connects to ground so that pushing the button grounds D8 & D8 shows a digital zero which the sketch can read & act accordingly on a button push (in this case toggling LED or relay).

Frankly, I have not compared the Uber & CompuTourist End nodes. For me, the CompuTourist Gateway & DHT End Node were much easier to follow & provide a more reliable & robust starting point than the Uber instructable plus the back & forth of correcting comments. With the CompuTourist version, one gets a Gateway built on one Arduino, bidirectional communication between Gateway & nodes, plus the ability to control AC devices. I did adapt the CompuTourist version to use Buono Uno Arduino compatibles switched to 3.3 v mode & I adapted the DHT End node schematic to supply 5 volts & more current to activate the relay.

Again by tonight, I hope to have posted (in Success...) more details about building an adapted CompuTourist DHT End node with AC control on an adapted prototyping shield.

[lhw455]

Thought I would post a couple pics of the final gateway product (missing an LED for the message activity, to be added once I receive some new LED's). I trimmed the wires and generally cleaned it up a bit

[papa]

It feels great to get something working in this project, right? Thanks for sharing the pics.

On my Success... posts, page 2, from Oct. 10 thru today (Oct. 16), I've published much more detail about assembling a DHT End Node on a prototyping shield.  I'll be interested to hear your progress on assembling the DHT node & what method you choose.

[camblonie]

Nice work. Just got my garage reed switch setup so I'm feeling pretty good myself.

[papa]

Congrats, camblonie. My version of a garage reed switch node has detected whether the garage door is open or closed. It worked a couple months, but stopped recently. I have not had a chance to troubleshoot it. When the door is closed (most of the time), the magnet closes the reed switch. So I wonder if the reed switch has frozen in its closed position.

I'd be interested to hear how you're using the reed switch & whether it gives out on you after a while.

[camblonie]

I'll let you know how it holds up. I actually broke 2 reed switches being too rough with the wires. Next step is to make a rule to message me if the door is open after a specified time at night.

[papa]

Yes, those reed switches are fragile. I broke one bending its wire leads. I ended up folding a thin, flexible piece of clear plastic over the reed switch & its leads to protect it. The plastic also gave me something to receive mounting screws to hold it to the wooden garage door frame.

[lhw455]

Oct 15, 2015 2:00:05 GMT papa said:

Thanks, lhw455, for the summary on "getting Mosquitto (latest version) installed on the Raspberry Pi (or 2)."  That could help others, including maybe me if I use a Raspberry Pi instead of a Windows laptop.

At my Success... posts later tomorrow, I hope that I can give more detailed instructions about building a DHT End node on a prototyping shield.

You can see & execute the start of the build at the Sep 22, 2015, 7:51pm & Oct 10, 2015, 8:01am Success... posts.

Unlike building the Gateway, you will need more than an Arduino Clone for a DHT End node because the Arduino does not have enough connections for what is required.  You will need something else like my build on a shield.

Since you are using a 3.3 v clone, it may be easier for you to follow my adapted schematic at the Success... Sept. 22, 7:51pm post.

         Responding to your questions about the schematic... 

1) Yes GND on the sensor SOMEHOW connects to an Arduino GND (which it may share with other items needing GND)

2) You're not interpreting the schematic correctly.  D8 is to read the push button & connects to one of the button's terminals which also connects to 3.3 v power via a pull up 10k ohm resistor (resistor connected to power gives D8 a stable 3.3 volt value until pushing the button grounds D8 thru the button's other terminal & gives D8 a stable zero value to indicate the button was pushed.)

3) Schematic means connect Arduino 3.3v SOMEHOW to DHT sensor's VCC AND to the RFM69's 3.3 v solder hole. (Again you need something like my shield built to accomplish this.)

4) Yes the sensor data pin connects to D4, but it also connects to Arduino 3.3 v via a 4.7 k ohm pull up resistor. (See my shield build.)

5) The "stuff after the voltage input" in the original CompuTourist schematic is what he added to provide additional needed current. No, you do not need this with a 3.3v clone like a Buono Uno. (My adapted schematic deletes that "stuff.")

Thanks papa, for this.

Can I ask, is the push button and shield optional? What exactly is the push button? I link to one would be very useful and then I can find one to buy? And what is a pull-up resistor - I googled it, but don't know what the difference between a "normal" and "pull-up" resistor is? From reading your text, I think I can accomplish the schematic without a shield, I think it's feasible unless I'm missing something obvious?

Reading your success post, I must admit I'm a bit confused - all I want to achieve for the first node is a simple temp/humidity node, and yours covers this in addition to alot of other stuff, which I think is why I'm a bit confused.

[kmac]

"Pull-up resistor" just describes its use, not a specific kind of resistor.
With no connection the arduino inputs can float at any value between max and minimum. So to have a reliable circuit a resistor is connected to the input and either ground or the positive supply voltage.
If connected to ground it is a pull down resistor, if connected to positive side it is a pull up resistor.

[papa]

Sorry for the confusion. I do give a lot of detail, aiming to tell not only WHAT to accomplish, but at least one way how.

       << This pictures the top & bottom of a push button & the switch symbol for it in the DHT end node schematic. A push button used here is a spring-loaded switch that is normally open (no current flows). The button is closed (current flows) ONLY when the button is pushed & is open when the button is released. The full-blown DHT End Node (hardware & sketch) detects when the button is pushed & consequently toggles on & off a node LED or a node relay.

The prototyping shield has 2 push buttons, one to reset an attached Arduino & another for a sketch to use (my full build includes using this button for the DHT End Node sketch).

kmac is correct: A pull-up resistor is a "normal" resistor that connects a component (like a DHT or push button) & an Arduino digital connection (like D4 or D8) to an Arduino power connection. Let's use the DHT End Node push button as an example. Arduino D8 connects to one of the push button's terminals AND to Arduino 3.3 volts via the resistor. The resistor "pulls up" D8 (helps D8 stay at a stable "hi" state for the time being). The push button's other terminal (not in play until the button is pushed) connects to Arduino GND. When the button is pushed (closing connection between is terminals), D8 is "pulled down" to a LO state. The DHT End Node sketch can use this to detect reliably when the button has been pushed.

You ask "is the push button and shield optional?" They could be optional if "all you want to achieve for the first node is a simple temp/humidity node." Although this would still require a little more than an Arduino compatible (like a Buono Uno) switched to 3.3 volt mode, a wired RFM69 transceiver, & a wired DHT sensor. The Buono does have enough GND sockets for RFM69 GND & DHT11 GND, but it only has ONE 3.3 volt socket when two are needed (one for RFM69 & one for DHT11).Also the DHT sensor not only needs connection to 3.3v & GND, it also needs a resistor between 3.3 volts & its data pins. The 3.3 volt friendly shield I designed / built is one way to address the above needs & other possibilities.

Here two ways (A or B) you might accomplish "a simple temp/humidity node:" I guess they would be simpler than a full blown DHT End Node shield, but would still have challenges.

      << For BOTH A & B, you could solder the needed 4.7 kilo ohm resistor to the DHT's vcc & data pins like this, but you also must connect (solder? male-female Dupont cable?) wires to the DHT's vcc, data, & gnd pins.

A) You might make a "starter" version of my DHT End Node on a shield & then you could add more functions later. I numbered the steps at the Oct. 15 3:36pm Success... post.  At that post, do these numbered steps:  4a & 4b, 6b, 7, 10, 11, 12, 17, 18, 19, & 20. Take the DHT sensor as wired just above & plug the DHT vcc wire to one of the new sockets connected to the shield's 3.3 volt socket, plug the data wire into the shields D4 socket, & the GND to a shield GND socket.

OR B) To build a "simple" DHT node on mostly a Buono Uno... You could use a 3 socket break away header where you solder one piece of wire (a snipped resistor lead works) across all the bottom pins) like this ...
      << like this.  Then ... connect one wire from the Arduino 3.3 volt socket to one socket of the adapted break away header. That makes 3.3 volts available to the break away header's other two sockets where you can plug the DHT vcc wire & the RFM69 3.3v wire.  With the DHT sensor as wired above, plug the DHT vcc wire to one of the new sockets connected to the shield's 3.3 volt socket, plug the data wire into the shield's D4 socket, & plug the GND wire to a shield GND socket.  Caution: Situate that break away header (with insulation on those bottom soldered pins or hanging of the side of the Buono OR BOTH) so its 3.3 volts don't ground & short out.

[lhw455]

Hi papa, thanks, no apologies necessary, it's me that's the newbie here, so it's easy for me to get confused!

I will take a look at this post in more detail shortly and see what the best option is - I suspect I might go with option B, as it's hopefully simpler!

[lhw455]

Hi papa, once again!

This is what I propose, see some pics below

I'm going to connect the 4.7k resistor as I've shown it below (i.e. in between the cable instead of right on the sensor) will that be OK?

I'll then connect the VCC to the current (brown) cable coming from the RFM69 and solder another cable to the same location and put this into the 3.3v hole on the Arduino, will this work?

I'm still not sure, do I need a 1k resistor as shown on the schematic? Also, you said "D8 is to read the push button & connects to one of the button's terminals which also connects to 3.3 v power via a pull up 10k ohm resistor" so is this simply a wire going from D8 to push button terminal and then on to 10k omh resistor and then...onto the 3.3v - so I need to connect this to same wire as above?

[papa]

You ask, "Can I connect the 4.7k resistor as I've shown it below (i.e. in between the cable instead of right on the sensor) will that be OK?"
That should serve the same function as long as the length of the cables does not cause problems.

Sounds like you also propose soldering a "Y" (two wires junction into one more wire) where the bottom of the Y plugs into Arduino 3.3 volts PLUS RFM69 3.3 volts (or vcc) connects to one of the top arms of the Y & DHT vcc connects to the other top arm of the Y. That should work because the schematic means for us to connect both RFM69 3.3 volts (or vcc) & DHT vcc to Arduino 3.3 volts.

By your building a "simple DHT end node" (only DHT sensor AND no button or LED or relay), you don't need the button or 1K resistor (which CompuTourist used to protect the LED from burning out & I changed to 100 ohms or 220 ohms, still ok to protect LED but make it brighter).  Note: May 19, 2016, computourist said: With 100 ohms, current will be around 15 mAmps, well within specs.


By your mentioning the 1K resistor, I surmise you are following the original CompuTourist DHT End Node Schematic. Since you use Buono Unos, I think you'd find my adapted CompuTourist schematics a little easier to use. I provide them in my Success... posts, like Oct 15 at 3:36pm.  Below is a sample edited to what I hear you are wanting.

      << (Click on the image for a larger view.)
             ^^ A schematic for a "Simple Version" of the DHT End Node (just a DHT sensor)

I was thinking that your simple DHT node will still work OK with the original sketch (customized to your situation, of course) & that the node will just not have a button, LED, or relay for those parts of the node sketch to use.  Since the sketch expects that a resistor will hold D8 HI until the button is pushed to make D8 LOW, the sketch will think a button is permanently pressed because there is no longer a resistor to hold D8 HI.  Again, I don't believe this will make any difference to how you see your simple node functioning.  If necessary the sketch can be fixed like commenting out the sketch lines 167-186 (Detect Input Change).

[lhw455]

Update! See pics...although not good updates I don't think...

I built the node (temp/humidity) - I think correctly, and I've uploaded the 2.1 .ino node (changed the encrypt key to the same as on the gateway, node id of 2, gateway is 1, debug enabled), but all I get in the serial monitor is "no connection" - I presume from reading the code that this means that it looks like it's getting the temp and humidity readings, but is not able to send them to the gateway?

[papa]

You said, "all I get in the serial monitor is "no connection" - I presume from reading the code that this means that it looks like it's getting the temp and humidity readings, but is not able to send them to the gateway?"

"All I get" ?? On the serial monitor, you surely see the Node's start up message: "Node Software Version ...", right? Report ALL you see on the serial monitor.

"No connection" means no radio connection between Gateway & Node. Cannot tell if it is sending sensor readings or RSSI, etc.

At same time as your DHT node is connected to USB, your Gateway is powered & connected to your home network via Ethernet cable, right?

The 22 gauge wire can be springy & some wires springiness can pull other wires from sockets. Make sure all wires are solidly in their sockets.

As with troubleshooting the Gateway, did you check all your soldering to make sure the right things are connected (multimeter continuity test) & the wrong things are not (continuity & magnifying glass examination)?

You particularly want all power & gnd connections to the right locations & working.

As with troubleshooting the Gateway, you can try removing something & see if things work better then. Here, unplug DHT data & gnd so no current flows thru the DHT. Do you see more positive stuff on the serial monitor? Then you know the problem probably relates to the DHT connection.

AND as with troubleshooting the Gateway, restarting (press RESET buttons) Gateway & Node might help.

[lhw455]

Hi papa, yes, I get Node V2.1, communicating at 868mhz, followed by the repeating "no connection". The gateway is definitely on, with the green light indicating that it's connected to the Moquitto server (I haven't yet received the replacement LED so I haven't connected the messaged LED).

I'll check all the wires again, on both the new node and the gateway. I'll have to remember if I have a multimeter, I think I have one from a few years ago, so I'll try and find that and do some testing. I'll also try your suggestion of removing the GND and data from the DHT and see what pops up.

[papa]

When you say yes, I get Node V2.1, communicating at 868mhz, followed by the repeating "no connection"
        I believe you identified a problem.

                Because your pics show RFM69's at 915MHz.

Looks like you need to make about lines 70-71 in DHT sketch to look like this:

//#define FREQUENCY RF69_868MHZ
#define FREQUENCY RF69_915MHZ

first line is disabled with "//" comment indicator
   second line is active

Also make sure the corresponding lines in the Gateway sketch are correct.

Make those changes, upload, & see how it works.

[trouserhams]

Oct 14, 2015 17:53:14 GMT lhw455 said:

Follow this guide: jpmens.net/2013/09/01/installing-mosquitto-on-a-raspberry-pi/

Except, when you get to this part:


curl -O http://repo.mosquitto.org/debian/mosquitto-repo.gpg.key
sudo apt-key add mosquitto-repo.gpg.key
rm mosquitto-repo.gpg.key
cd /etc/apt/sources.list.d/
sudo curl -O http://repo.mosquitto.org/debian/mosquitto-repo.list
sudo apt-get update


Instead follow this:


curl -O http://repo.mosquitto.org/debian/mosquitto-repo.gpg.key
sudo apt-key add mosquitto-repo.gpg.key
rm mosquitto-repo.gpg.key
cd /etc/apt/sources.list.d/
sudo curl -O http://repo.mosquitto.org/debian/mosquitto-wheezy.list
sudo apt-get update




Hi lhw455, I seem to be a few months behind you, but am also attempting this from a newbie starting point.

Currently I am unable to connect when plugging the gateway into the router, I have even given up completely with one set of pro mini hardware and started again with a buono and ethernet shield to the same outcome. (I have gradually stripped components off it to see if the RF69 chip was damaged, and now jsut have the arduino and ethernet shield in place!)

I have installed mosquitto and tested it works on the raspberry pi by communicating via two terminal windows as follows;

        Start the Mosquitto Broker Open the terminal and type mosquitto_sub -h 127.0.0.1 -t topic



        Open another terminal and type mosquitto_pub -h 127.0.0.1 -t topic -m "Hello"



        Now you can switch to the previous terminal and there you can able to see the "Hello" Message.One terminal acts as publisher and another one         subscriber.

However, in order to get this working I literally only typed in what you have above, and didn't follow the rest of the guide. I just wanted to check whether this was correct?

Otherwise I am guessing I must have an issue with my router or something along those lines? very frustrating seeming as it sounds like it should be virtually plug and play!!!





[camblonie]

Good catch Papa. Usually obvious problems in hind sight.