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Post by papa on Sept 30, 2022 20:38:24 GMT
Hardware Possibilities for ESP32 Nodes My criteria for ESP32 Boards: - Many ESP32 pins are exposed to board edge connections - Board edge connections with female headers or unpopulated so I can add female headers. (I use female headers to connect LEDs, sensors, etc.) - Pinouts & other helpful documentation are available
- Possible added features like usable board button or LED or OLED screen. - USB connector for Arduino IDE programming & Serial Monitor debugging output. - Ideally 3 or 4 GND pins (enough for sensors, LEDs, etc)
ESP32 Boards Used or Considered So Far:
The Sparkfun ESP32 Thing (see here or here) is a good product with much documentation. That board includes a usable button & blue LED. One can separately order female headers of the right length. Besides 4 GND pins, it has connections & charging circuits for LiPo batteries. The HiLetgo 0.96" ESP32 OLED Board (See here) has less docs & available pins, but has an OLED screen & is OK & costs less than the ESP32 Thing. Apparently, it's similar to a Wemos Lolin32 board, but does not have LiPo battery circuit. It has 3 GND pins.
So far I've begun to successfully use both of the above boards & will document more later. Other possibilities I do not have yet: HiLetgo ESP32 S2 Mini WiFi Board (See here). This board is even cheaper, but it has less power pin connections & uses a USB Type C connection. Wemos Lolin32 board (See here & here). Like the HiLetgo 0.96" ESP32 OLED Board, but has Lithium battery interface, 500mA Max charging current Next, Parts That Could Be Useful,
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Post by papa on Sept 30, 2022 19:43:08 GMT
MQTT Nodes on ESP32 Dev Boards, Introduction
My DIY home automation still uses several 3.3 volt Arduino compatibles. However ... Reliable 3.3 volt Arduinos are becoming less available. Prices for them plus RFMxx antennas are not necessarily much better than ESP32 boards with included WiFI. Beside the Arduinos are older technology & have less memory for programming. For Arduino nodes' communication, we have to install an RFMxx antenna & make an RFMxx Gateway.
ESP32 development boards (like the Sparkfun ESP32 Thing) work nicely to communicate via WiFi. They also offer several pins for connecting sensors, etc. Some like the Thing have connections & charging circuits for LiPo batteries.
This forum's code for several RFMxx nodes could be adapted to ESP32 dev boards & could connect more directly to openHAB, etc. via MQTT & WiFi. (No Gateway necessary)
This thread will begin offering code & documentation for ESP32-WiFi-openHAB Nodes. Who would be willing to help develop this new offering?
(The camera code is extensive & complicated so I left it out of this thread's offering.)
Next: Hardware Possibilities for ESP32 Nodes
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Post by papa on Sept 30, 2022 19:35:11 GMT
Reserved for Latest Initial Customizing of ALL ESP32 Nodes
In the Arduino IDE, open the sketch that will be in the just above post & customize it. As an early sketch line says, "Customize your node starting at line XXX." Go to line XXX & see near there the line number where the customizing section will end. Initial CustomizationnodeID must be a unique number for each WiFi device, but should be a unique node number in your openHAB system. When I document each node, I will suggest a number (starting with 35).
wifi_ssid_A, wifi_password_A edit in your SSID & password
If you have another WiFi station, edit in that info to wifi_ssid_B, wifi_password_B. Otherwise, give B the same WiFi info as A.
For mqtt_server, edit in the IP address of your computer that hosts the mqtt broker.
For SERIAL_BAUD, match the rate you set in the Arduino IDE Serial Monitor
=========================================
Before uploading programming to the node, also do the node's added customization found where the node is documented more specifically. Often just return to the thread & post that sent you to this thread for the Latest Initial ESP32 Node Choices Sketch & Customization. Again, you may go to this post & see hints of the types of nodes one might program with the sketch that will be provided in this thread. Next, Introduction
Then, Hardware Possibilities for ESP32 Nodes
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Post by papa on Sept 30, 2022 19:25:31 GMT
Reserved for Latest Programming of ESP32 WiFi MQTT Nodes: I have begun adapting the node choices code to ESP32 WiFi boards from Arduinos with RFM69 or RFM95 antennas. I & others expanded computourist's original DHT End Node sketch to produce the node choices sketch. In this easy to find post, I will begin providing the latest sketch version. Below I'll first provide some introduction, preparation, & document getting started.
At the end of the downloadable sketch will be a version history, summary of possible nodes, & some documentation. This post will usually have the latest ESP32 node choices sketch in the next line.
ESP32_nodes_n006Hpub.ino (44.44 KB) << From here, Forum members (free registration) can download the ESP32 Nodes sketch. ^^ Updated & corrected Oct. 28, 2022 to fix DHT glitch.
^^ This version includes BUTTON, BUTTONIO, ACTOR, SWITCH1, SWITCH2, SWITCH3, OLED display, PIR Motion Sensor (incl Interrupt) & DHT (temp/humidity sensor).
Important: To use this programming, you need something like Arduino IDE & its ESP32 addon. See this post below. Before uploading this sketch, customization is usually needed. See below ...
Next, Latest Initial Customizing for ALL ESP32 Nodes
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Post by papa on Sept 7, 2022 13:55:06 GMT
Some TroubleshootingMy RFM69 nodes tend to run for years without trouble. (Other than soldering lead wires to RFM69 radios) I tend to plug wires into Arduino sockets. These connections (especially in damp situations) can tarnish & become unreliable. Recently one node monitoring a door's dead bolt lock (nestled among transpiring plants) stopped working & needed troubleshooting. (Above, see this post & this post.) I plugged the node into my Arduino IDE computer & watched the serial monitor output. The RFM69 radio was not connecting & the lock's opening & closing was not reporting reliably. To un-tarnish the RFM69 connections & lock connections to Arduino pins, I started slightly unplugging & re-plugging wires into Arduino sockets. I also cleaned the RFM69 connections with steel wool. I plugged the cleaned RFM69 radio into my receiving test RFM69 Arduino ( see this thread). The radio works & acknowledges my sending test RFM69 Arduino. I reinstalled the radio on the door lock node, but the node was still not reliable. I programmed another Buono Uno Arduino compatible & installed the RFM69 radio & lock connections. Now the node connects & reports lock status to openHAB via its gateway.
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Post by papa on Aug 28, 2022 20:44:37 GMT
Troubleshooting CompleteI returned the RFM69 water level node to the sump cistern area & powered it. The node communicates reliably with openHAB via the Gateway. The MIC sensor "hears" the pump noise & signals that pumping is on. The node reports how long the pumping lasts. The node reliably reports water levels of low, medium, & high. See this post for how I updated the cumulative total of pump runs since the current pump was installed.
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Post by papa on Aug 28, 2022 19:27:36 GMT
Some TroubleshootingMy RFM69 nodes tend to run for years without trouble. (Other than soldering lead wires to RFM69 radios) I tend to plug wires into Arduino sockets. These connections (especially in damp situations) can tarnish & become unreliable. Recently this water-level node (damp basement corner near open sump cistern) stopped working & needed troubleshooting. I plugged the node into my Arduino IDE computer & watched the serial monitor output. The RFM69 radio was not connecting & the water levels were not reporting reliably, but the sound sensor was working fine. With vinegar & steel wool, I cleaned the water level probes (bared ends of insulated copper wire). I don't believe this led to my eventual success. I've found that even corroded copper conducts sufficiently. To un-tarnish the RFM69 connections & water level connections to transistors & Arduino analog pins, I started slightly unplugging & re-plugging wires into Arduino sockets. The water level reports (except for one probe) started working better. I gave more attention to connections for the one not working probe & that started working. The RFM69 radio connection was still not working. I checked the RFM69 Gateway which was working. I unplugged the radio's wires & used steel wool on the bared wire ends that plug into Arduino sockets. I plugged the cleaned RFM69 radio into my receiving test RFM69 Arduino ( see this thread). Now the radio works & acknowledges my sending test RFM69 Arduino. I reinstalled the radio on the water level node. Now the node connects & reports to openHAB via its gateway. My last tasks: (1) return the water level node to the awkward sump cistern area. 2) Estimate how many times the sump has run since the node stopped working & update the cumulative total (switchTrips).
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Post by papa on Aug 26, 2022 14:03:33 GMT
KnowYourBuilding,
So far, your above post seems related to the topics of this forum. From my first glance at your web site, your business focuses more on commercial applications than on the "Home" in our forum title DIY Home Automation.
For now, I'll leave what you post, but I'll watch to see if things get "spammy."
Forum members, what do you think?
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Post by papa on Aug 22, 2022 18:27:01 GMT
Adding an ESP32-WiFi Gateway & Nodes
To DIY Home Automation Using Either RFM69 OR RFM95 Radios
In this thread, I document another network that can be added to DIY Home Automation. It features an ESP32 Gateway & Arduino compatibles with RFM69 radios. One can buy ESP32 & compatibles with pre-installed radios OR install the radios yourself. In this thread, I document another network that can be added to DIY Home Automation. It features an ESP32 Gateway & Arduino compatibles with RFM95 radios which are supposed to communicate longer distances than RFM69s. One can buy ESP32 & compatibles with pre-installed radios OR install the radios yourself. The networks can have encryption between nodes & Gateway & can also have password protection between the Gateway & the MQTT server. The Gateway connects to openHAB via MQTT. One can create up to three RFM69 networks & up to three RFM95 networks. One Gateway/Network can handle several nodes (at least 10?) & could be enough for most users. The RFM69 Gateways & RFM95 Gateways are coded so they should not interfere with each other's networks or with the WiFi nodes documented on this forum.
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Post by papa on Aug 21, 2022 20:10:59 GMT
ctodor, I first suggest that you provide more information to help diagnosis. You say "Using the attached EZ_Receive and EZ_Send examples I was able to send and receive messages." papa: What evidence do you have that you are able to send & receive messages (because your "later edit" disagrees)? Having the sender device connected to your Arduino IDE computer, did you follow this instruction: "in the Serial Monitor's top box, enter 2" ? What results did you get? What are your versions of the Arduino IDE & the RFM69.h library? What Arduino devices are you using? Are the Arduinos (for ALL pins except for the 5 volt pin) TOTALLY running on 3.3 volts? Otherwise you can damage the RFM69 radio. On sender & receiver device, do the power up LEDs light steadily? (Arduinos that switch between 3.3 & 5 volts may need fiddling with to get reliable connection.) What is the frequency of your RFM69 radios? In BOTH send & receive sketches, did you put that frequency after "#define myFrequency " ? Did you check the wiring of your send & receive devices against the diagram in this post above? Check the wiring again, please. Did you match the antenna lengths to your radio frequency? Did you recheck the quality of how you soldered wires to the radios? Try trading the radios between sender & receiver. What results do you get? Do you have another RFM69 radio to try on the receiver device? If so, try it. Please start reporting answers to the above questions.
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Post by papa on Aug 21, 2022 20:08:12 GMT
ctodor & anyone else,
I have rebuilt & reprogrammed my RFM69 radio test devices. Mine work as expected. (Sometimes, even often, I receive an ACK to the messages sent by the EZ_Send device. Sometimes, I don't, but sendWithRetry redundancies would provide reliable communication.
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Post by papa on Aug 21, 2022 20:03:33 GMT
Greetings, ctodor Welcome to the thrills & frustrations of DIY Home Automation. I just saw your post today. Before I offer some suggestions, a disclaimer: My DIY Home Automation system is working (mostly). I don't have any big desire to add features. & I have been busy with other life matters. Thus, I have not been tweaking things for a while (months or more). While I see that some people stop by the forum each day, they have not posted (requests or new projects) for a long time (except spam that I knock down). Therefore without the above incentives to stay current, I'm a bit rusty, but I'll try to offer you some help below.
BTW#1, you might try the EZ_Send2,ino sketch that I offered above.
BTW#2 in order for me to keep offering help, I need to hear responses from you.
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Post by papa on Aug 21, 2022 20:02:11 GMT
papa: ctodor, I moved your post here, so I could insert some updates above.
Aug 15, 2022 7:51:01 GMT -5 ctodor said:
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Post by papa on Aug 21, 2022 19:59:41 GMT
Testing the RFM69 Radios, Version 2Power the node with "Receive" programming (via computer USB port or wall power)
Connect the node with "Send" programming to the Arduino IDE computer & open the serial monitor (SM) & make sure (lower right) it's set to 115200 baud. In this version, you will NOT enter a "1" or "2" to the Serial Monitor. Messages should scroll continually through the Serial Monitor Results: Sometimes SM will tell us the send was not acknowledged. Other times it should be acknowledged & tell us the Radio Signal Strength (RSSI) in dB. RSSI will be in negative numbers. You might get RSSI of -48, very good. Or the RSSI might be -74 or -94. The closer the RSSI is to zero, the stronger the signal is. Our forum sketches use radio send with retry so communication has some redundancy to help succeed. Strong signal is nice, but the main thing is having strong enough signal for communication to succeed much of the time. As with WiFi routers, placement can makes a difference on communication success. I get best results by placing my RFM69 Gateway as high & as central as possible.
You can use these sketches to test two RFM radios at a time. One of the test devices is a Bare Bones node that you can further build into a DHT End Node. The other test device has two of the parts you need for an RFM69 Gateway."
While you have the test devices programmed, I recommend that you wire & test at least three or four RFM69 radios.
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Post by papa on Aug 21, 2022 19:41:39 GMT
Program the TWO RFM69 Radio Test Devices, Version 2
For the RFM69 tests above, in the Serial Monitor top input box, we can enter a "1" for a "plain send' or enter a "2" for a "sendWithRetry" (& get an indication of success).
In the EZ_Send2 sketch below, I avoid the inputs & just use sendWithRetry.
Each of the TWO Buono Unos will be programmed with its own sketch that I adapted from Andy Sigler's repository. EZ_Receive.ino found in this post << As above with this same sketch, (using Arduino IDE) program one of the nodes so it can receive an RFM69 radio message & send an ACK, an acknowledgement reply. Power this node with an AC outlet. EZ_Send2.ino (2.19 KB) << With this sketch, program the OTHER node so it can send an RFM69 radio message & receive an ACK. Next, Testing the RFM69 Radios, Version 2
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Post by papa on Aug 21, 2022 19:36:10 GMT
Some Serial Monitor Results of RFM69 Tests Following my own instructions for building & programming & powering the RFM69 Test Nodes, I entered "2" a number of times in the upper Serial Monitor box. Here are some sample results:
That is, sometimes the sender device received reply/ACK & sometimes not. In regular sketch practice, the RFM69 sendWithRetry function tries a number of sends until it gets a result. At this forum. the RFM69 code that we use comes from LowPowerLab.com. This LowPowerLab thread gives some sense of how the ACK works. Next, Version 2 of the Sender Programming
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Post by papa on Jan 3, 2022 14:47:38 GMT
chehre PM: "I want to be able to understand ... how the data get reformed as MQTT topics from Arduino format." papa: I believe you could learn a lot by studying the Gateway sketch. In that sketch, search for "topic" & study the related code & comments. I tried to be generous with comments to help me & others understand. Along side what you see about "topic" in the Gateway sketch, look at your openHAB's Thing/channel configurations for a node's related MQTT State Topic & MQTT Command Topic. For example, a node & Thing named Node05. For RSSI, the channel identifier is Node05Channel02 For this channel ... MQTT State Topic is home/rfm_gw/nb/node05/dev02
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Post by papa on Dec 25, 2021 15:56:21 GMT
Increasing an Antenna's Gain As said above, a single wire (of correct length) soldered at the radio's ANA pin is often sufficient. However, what if we need more gain? This sparkfun link summarizes approaches that are found in other locations. They make sense to me, but ( disclaimer) I have not needed to use them. The methods for increasing antenna gain are generally variations on this: " Antennas love to have a ground underneath them [ground plane]. A RFMxx board contains a ground, but, the larger the ground, the better." To the ground pin nearest the ANA pin, one can connect another 1/4 wavelength antenna wire. Or put a piece of conductive metal near & perpendicular to the antenna wire. (To avoid damaging electrical shorts, be careful that the only place the metal piece is connected is to the RFMxx radio's GND pin nearest ANA.) In this Andreas Spiess video & comments, he makes an antenna that uses 4 legs for a ground plane. He uses an electronic tool to fine tune the antenna. However, he also links a calculator & plans to achieve a "close enough" antenna.
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Post by papa on Dec 22, 2021 22:42:32 GMT
Some Antenna Guidelines Antenna performance (RSSI) is measured in DBs (decibels with a different meaning than for sound). Our antennas may function adequately given negative DBs. The more positive (that is, the less negative) our DB result, the better our antenna is performing. -50db is better than -70db.
Never operate a radio without an antenna which could be damaged. Keep the polarity (orienting the antenna horizontal or vertical) of sender & receiver antennas the same. Since an antenna's signal forms somewhat of a doughnut shape around the antenna, vertical orientation seems best when having reception issues.
Since an antenna's signal forms somewhat of a doughnut shape around the antenna, signal coverage is better in all directions horizontally. Directly below & above the antenna is not covered. The farther away horizontally from the antenna, the more there is some coverage above & below.
Having line of sight & the least obstacles between sender & receiver will get the longest distance of reception. For short distances, these radios can handle some obstacles like walls, etc.
Next, Increasing an Antenna's Gain
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Post by papa on Dec 22, 2021 20:28:32 GMT
Sources for Simple Antennas
Soldering a straight wire antenna to a radio's ANA connector can work adequately in a home & even into one's yard.
A coiled antenna (purchased or from a wired wrapped around a pencil) will probably work adequately, but compared to a straight wire, range & directionality will be affected. Of course, a coiled antenna takes less space than a straight one.
Next, Some Antenna Guidelines
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Post by papa on Dec 22, 2021 20:27:01 GMT
RFMxx Radio Antenna Needed
When we use wireless radios (like RFM69 & RFM95), the antenna is a critical component.
See here about antenna sizes for RFM69 (& RFM95) radio frequencies. I also adapted the following from Table 1 at this site. It gives appropriate regions for the frequencies. Antenna sizes (1/4 wave) may be close but a little different from other tables:
Each country/region requires a radio frequency that is available for UNlicensed usage.
Available Unlicensed Frequency Bands Frequency Antenna length Regions433 MHz 173 mm Europe, Asia, Australia, U.S. (limited) 868 MHz 82 mm Europe only 915 MHz 78 mm U.S. and Australia (& Canada ??) Other research says, a 1/4 wave ANT or ANA (antenna) wire for 868 or 915 MHz can be about 3 inches (80mm), about 6.5 inches (165 mm) for 433MHz. Next, Sources for Simple Antennas
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Post by papa on Dec 20, 2021 21:56:06 GMT
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Post by papa on Dec 13, 2021 17:13:52 GMT
Some Helpful Options in the LIFX App
Tap on the Device name of the LIFX bulb. At the upper right, tap on ... At the bottom, tap on Light Settings. That gives buttons for updating the firmware & connecting/disconnecting the cloud.
By switching the LIFX bulb off & on five times with one second between the switches, we can reset the bulb to connect to a different WiFi. If our phone & bulb are connected to the same WiFi, we can use the phone's LIFX app to control the bulb.
In the Home screen, at the upper right is a calendar icon to access scheduling the LIFX bulb. Using that we could schedule bulb events as long as our phone & bulb are connected to the same WiFi.
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Post by papa on Dec 12, 2021 21:59:38 GMT
According to chehre, a Seeeduino V4.2 Arduino Compatible is an option for nodes & gateways IF a current Arduino IDE is used to program it.
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Post by papa on Dec 12, 2021 21:31:15 GMT
Congratulations, chehre. I'm happy & proud that you have a great start on your DIY Home Automation. I'm glad I could help & I appreciate how you did your own research using my posts & other resources. You also did a nice, responsible job of reporting what worked for you. I did tweak your post some, but it was very solid before I did that. You did a good job of linking to my instructions on key steps. The linked video on Dupont connectors was a helpful find that covers the key points. It's good to know that a Seeeduino V4.2 Arduino Compatible is an option for nodes & gateways IF a current Arduino IDE is used to program it. About making more nodes: Many of my node projects for sensors & actuators should be OK as is for hardware & firmware. Such projects document openHAB 2.5 configuration. However, they should be fairly easily adapted to openHAB 3, if you keep the following in mind: 1) My openHAB 2.5 configurations often refer to PaperUI. For openHAB3, similar configurations are done in Administration. In a brower, go to localhost:8080 & be logged in to openHAB administration. Then click Settings which then gives links to configuring Things, Bindings, etc. 2) Except for using settings/Things instead of PaperUI, configuring Things should be similar for OH3 as in OH2.5. If you use text files to configure Items, (unlike for OH2.5) OH3 needs the node Thing's UID. In the localhost:8080/ settings/things/ list click on the name of a node's Thing. Near the top of the resulting page is a line that says "Identifier" & just to the right is a small "stacked pages" icon. Hovering the mouse pointer over the icon displays " Copy UID" Click the icon & then you can paste the node Thing's UID where you need it in an Item's text configuration. Example of converting my OH2.5 Item text configuration to OH3: I previously had an OH2.5 Item for a node's signal strength (Note: I then used an embedded mqtt broker instead of Mosquitto.): My present OH3 Item for a node's signal strength: Note: You will get a node Thing UID different from my "c08f02ca8d:b3a7c9ed64"Starting here in my OH3 thread, I work through configuring openHAB3 for a data node. That should help you know the needed steps. Happy DIY Home Automating !!!
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Post by papa on Dec 9, 2021 21:09:02 GMT
An Alarm Clock Light via a RuleThe pulselight rule shows some possibilities of controlling the LIFX bulb with openHAB. LIFX-pub.rules (1.58 KB) << Forum members, download this rule into your /rules folder (Linux: /etc/openhab/rules). As is, at 4:58am & 6:03am, for 4 repetitions (& with 9% hops), this rule ramps the brightness from 1% to 100% & then from 100% to 1%. It ends with the LIFX turned off completely. I have the LIFX bulb in a switched light socket mounted on a jar lid which I place on the floor on my side of our bed. When the rule triggers, it produces four quick "sunrises/sunsets" on the bedroom ceiling, gently waking me up (sometimes). I have a back up sound alarm which I prematurely turn off if the light wakes me. If the first set of pulses wakes me, I also turn of the light socket. My spouse (who wants to wake up later than me) says the light disturbs her less than the sound alarm.
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Post by papa on Dec 8, 2021 19:31:21 GMT
Display/Control LIFX Bulb in HABPanel
In your browser, go to localhost:8080/habpanel. At the upper right, click the gear icon. Scroll down to an existing dashboard to receive LIFX widgets OR scroll to the bottom & at the bottom left, click Add new dashboard. Click on the dashboard you want to use.
In your chosen dashboard, add a slider widget for Brightness & a dummy widget for Signal Strength. For each widget's "openHAB item" field, find & select the items you linked in the last post. Save & run the updated dashboard.
After success with the above, you can click or slide the select point on the Brightness widget to change the LIFX bulb's brightness.
Next, An Alarm Clock Light via a Rule
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Post by papa on Dec 8, 2021 19:19:35 GMT
Configure LIFX Channels & Link to Items
For the LIFX White bulb, Brightness & Signal Strength are the main channels. A (Color) Temperature channel is also offered, but since the LIFX White's Temperature seems fixed, no point in using this channel. Temperature & other channels may be usable in other types of LIFX bulbs (especially color bulbs).
Click on the LIFX Thing then the Channel tab. Then click on the Brightness channel. Click Add Link to Item. You could create a related Item in an .items file & link to an existing item. However, it's easier to click beside Create a New Item. You may edit what openHAB offers or accept as is. When ready, scroll to the bottom & click Link. Do the same for the Signal Strength Channel.
To use for the next post, make note of the Items' names linked to the Brightness & Signal Strength channels.
Next, Display/Control LIFX Bulb in HABPanel
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Post by papa on Dec 7, 2021 22:04:14 GMT
Create LIFX Thing in OpenHAB
Go to localhost:8080/settings/things/add. Click LIFX Binding.
At the top, click the (inbox) Scan button.
At the bottom, you should see that the inbox has a new addition. Click on that.
Accept the LIFX Thing.
Go to localhost:8080/settings/things. Click the LIFX Thing. In those properties, you may add an optional location (like location in the home). For sure in the host field, add the LIFX's IP address. (Log into your router & get IP from the DHCP client list.) Click Save at the upper right.
After the above, in the Things list we should see the LIFX Thing & we hope to see a green ONLINE button beside it. Perhaps because my openHAB is very full or peculiar to the LIFX, until much later, my LIFX Thing stayed offline even with rebooting openHAB (with & without clearing the openHAB cache).
However, even with the LIFX Thing labeled "OFFLINE," I was able to proceed to the next step. (Eventually the ONLINE status showed up.)
NEXT, Configure LIFX Channels & Link to Items
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Post by papa on Dec 7, 2021 21:34:18 GMT
Prepare OpenHAB for the LIFX Bulb
Go to localhost:8080/settings/addons/binding. There click the "+" icon & then search for & install the LIFX binding.
After that, I fussed long over successfully creating a LIFX White Thing for the LIFX binding, both via the inbox & manually. I did more research & found reference to LIFX using UDP port 56700. Oh, I wondered, does that port needs to be opened in the firewall?
The following is VERY important for openHAB success. It's for Linux, but in parallel, you can check Windows Firewall rules & create a new rule if necessary.
In Linux Terminal, execute sudo ufw status
To open UDP port 56700, in Linux Terminal, execute sudo ufw allow 56700/udp
Next, Create LIFX Thing in OpenHAB
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